Sunday, November 10, 2013

Vogue 1370 - Pattern Alterations

This pattern appears to be a simple silhouette with a few inserts.  Let me start out by saying, yeah right! *LOL*  There are 14 total pieces for the dress that includes the front and the right and left back pieces. I look at a pattern by comparing it to my TNT dress pattern because I always think of that as the basis to make any changes to a new pattern.


I started with a Vogue size 24. I can honestly say that if I hadn't had my TNT dress pattern to compare the pattern to, I would be lost.  There are quite a few inches difference between Vogue 1370 and my TNT pattern...which I know fits me with the right amount of ease and the correct proportions for my body. 

There were a number of alterations made to the patterns:

Changes to the front ~
1.  After laying all of the patterns on top of my TNT dress front pattern (which is getting pretty worn and will need to be traced again soon) there were so many things to change.  Trying to match the notches and dots on the pattern pieces, made me a little crazy, but I had to see how the dress was suppose to go together before I made any changes to the pattern pieces. It truly was a big old puzzle!



2.  After getting everything laid down, I started on one side and worked my way across.  I pinned the center front of the pattern pieces to the center front of my TNT dress pattern to use as a guideline and an anchor.
  

3.  This dress is short.  There is a 5.5" difference between the hemline of the pattern pieces and my TNT dress' hemline.  At first I was going to just add it at the hemline but then I decided to use the lengthen/shorten lines and add the length proportionally.  2.5" at the lengthen/shorten lines and 3" at the hemline.

4.  Thank goodness I had a plan because the alterations were really extensive all together especially on the front.  It took way longer to make them than I originally thought it would. I wanted to be accurate so the final dress will fit correctly.  Also, I needed to make sure that I added in all of the inches I needed without distorting the original style of the dress.



5.  Changed the dart where it appeared on the original right front pattern piece to where it is on my TNT pattern.  I just drew a new dart onto the pattern tissue after I'd enlarged the side seams so that they matched my own. But I didn't change the dart on the left side pattern piece ~ it fell into the same place on my TNT pattern, so I left it alone.



6.  There was only one piece on the front that I didn't change - #3 the insert piece.  Hopefully that won't bite me in the butt later! *LOL*


Changes to the back ~
*The changes to the back weren't quite as extensive as they were to the front.  It was more making sure that the left side and right side pieces were correct and adding a few inches to the sides.






*I also used the lengthen/shorten lines to add the 5.5" to the dress back.






*There are different changes to the left and right side back patterns.  One side required more changes than the other one did. There is a dart in the back left side pattern piece that I'm not transferring.  I don't normally use darts in the backs of my dresses and I won't in this one either.  This is a personal design choice. Another sewist may choose to use the dart.  I just hate back darts pointing at my bodacious behind. 


Final thoughts...
There was a lot of pattern alterations involved in taking this pattern from out of the envelope to matching the dimensions of my TNT pattern.  I used a lot of tape and small pieces of tracing paper.  There was so much work that I only did pattern alterations this weekend, never even turned my sewing machine on.  It took time because at times I stopped to think through what I was doing and I knew that I didn't want to rush the process.

Also, when I went to pull the fabric for this garment I ran into a small challenge. I couldn't decide between the black 'n white houndstooth or the black 'n white lace for the inserts.  I turned to Instagram for opinions but I'll ask here too since I haven't cut anything out yet.

Here is the collage. Feel free to leave your opinion in the comments on which combo you'd choose and why.


Top left - black double wool crepe and houndstooth
Bottom right - black double wool crepe and lace

I will let you know what I finally decide since I'll be cutting the dress and sewing it next weekend.


...as always more later! 








34 comments:

  1. Wow! Looks like one complicated pattern but don't you love a good challenge.That pattern almost went into my cart last week but it didn't I love it too.I vote for the black/herringbone combo although the lace is awfully pretty!!Have a great week,Carolyn.

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  2. Gosh lots of work my vote is for the lace combo

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  3. I love herringbone any day of the week, but the herringbone bits strike me as being too large for the smallish inserts. I think the pattern won't show properly. For that reason, I'd vote for the lace.

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  4. Oh my land was designed as a way too short dress?! Wonderful work on the mods. I really enjoy the textural and color contrast of the lace.

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  5. The lace contrast would be pretty.
    Having a TNT seems to be the best safety measure when you start with a new pattern style. You're very good at that.

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  6. Isn't it great to have a TNT to compare? That pattern would completely flummox me. Both options look great to me.

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  7. LACE and a longer length than you normally wear. I think that below the knee is much more flattering than the knee showing.

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  8. Not keen in the herringbone, for the same reasons as mentioned above.

    Beyond that - I am quite useless!

    Really looking forward to sewing this dress.

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  9. WOW you sure did have to make quite a few alterations to the pattern! Thank goodness for your trusty old TNT. I'm actually learning more towards the herringbone than the lace actually but either would look nice... there's something about the herringbone that keeps calling me LOL. Looking forward to seeing what you choose :)

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  10. Cutting out all those pieces from the paper would tire me out before even getting to the fabric! I admire your stamina! I really like the herringbone fabric but I agree with the comments above that the contrast pieces probably aren't big enough to properly show the herringbone

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  11. lace for me. love reading your blog.

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  12. Cute dress. I like the second combo for sure. I think it will show off the fabric the best with this dress pattern.

    Can't wait to see it. I'm sure it will be lovely as always ;)

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  13. Thank you for taken me on your fitting journey. Your input is always very interesting and exemplary.
    Have a nice week Mema

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  14. This pattern caught my eye but, 14 pattern pieces for a sheath, you are made of better stuff than me. Of course when I see your version I will change my mind ...

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  15. I am going to be outvoted, but I say Herringbone. I feel like for the insets you will still get the idea of the herringbone pattern, but I feel like the lace pattern would get lost. Though, I will concede, it might look totally different in real life than in my head. And I am sure whichever way you go it will end up being fabulous as usual. Can't wait to see the finished product!

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  16. Carolyn,
    I can't get over just how many alterations you've managed. My head is spinning - can't even begin to advise you on the fabric combo......I know you'll select the perfect mix of fabrics.

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  17. My vote is for the lace because the herringbone looks too big for the small insets.

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  18. My vote is for the lace. Maybe you could put your TNT onto Oaktag and then it would last forever. Good luck with the dress, I think it will be lovely.

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  19. Preparation time is so time consuming, but well worth it. I vote for the herringbone.

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  20. Don't you feel so virtuous when you spend a weekend exercising your creative brain like this! It's just as fun as sewing - which is to say often painful and scary but in a good way :-) I cannot believe this dress has 14 pieces. INSANE!

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  21. Carolyn, my dear -

    What can I say? It's a Vogue pattern! For decades Vogue has been known as the company that gives you the most pattern pieces. Why are we surprised that this 'simple' dress has 14 different pieces? It doesn't matter. I know you're going to do an absolutely fantastic job. Can't wait to see the finished product.

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  22. At first I was thinking the lace, but I've been sitting here thinking. If the insert areas are large enough to show the herringbone well, I think I'd go in that direction, I think it might be a little more unexpected.

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  23. Once again I applaud all your hard alteration work but you know it's worth the effort. I think the lace fabric is my choice.

    Karen

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  24. I hope the alterations all work out perfect for the first fit. Good luck! Personally I'd prefer a solid colour for the inserts as they are pretty small. Otherwise the lace might be best.

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  25. Wow, the patternwork sounds like a lot of work.
    The herringbone strikes me as a somewhat stylized houndstooth, and I am a sucker for houndstooth. But its scale appears to be on the larger side and may not show well in the small inserts. Lace then?

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  26. I think the lace would be the perfect choice for the inserts.

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  27. I was initially leaning towards the herringbone but think the pattern might be too large and might not show in those small inserts. I always knew you were dedicated but oh my, the work that went into getting that pattern adjusted properly. I have what may be a silly question. Since you sew beautifully and do so much of it, could you not have taken your TNT pattern, traced it off, and then sketched the insets on it, just like the Vogue 1370? Basically redracting your TNT to make it like the new pattern? Whichever inset you choose, I think it is going to be gorgeous. Everything you make is very well made and finished. You will be a success with this also.

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  28. Lace for sure. More feminine and a little more soft looking and "delicate".

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  29. I vote lace since the inserts are small and delicate. Fantastic photos and job with the altering...my favorite part of sewing...planning and pinning and penciling and paper patching...all that work will be worth it like so many of your dresses...divine creations!

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  30. I so enjoy reading your blog - you are such a talented person and you surely get more garments made in a month than I can! I'm going to be completely different from everyone else. Do you have enough herringbone fabric to use as the main part of the sheath? I would love to see you in a "print" and since herringbone is popular in fashion right now (and it's a classic, so it will always be a great piece to have in your closet). My suggestion is to use the herringbone as the main part and use the black as the inserts. I agree with those who suggested a bit of a longer length, below the knee would be nice. Then, you can wear a great pair of black boots or heels with it. You are very fashionable and I know you will look beautiful in whatever choice you make!

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  31. I don't have any opinion one way or another regarding your fabric choices. I think both combinations are beautiful. I'm commenting because I am very interested in seeing how you upsize this pattern and put it together. I purchased this pattern because I liked the style and had no clue where to start in alterations. Good post.

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  32. I can't wait to see that dress on you! Your detail of the adjustment process is a lesson unto itself - great post! I vote for the lace. I think the flowing lines of the lace design compliment the seam lines of the dress and the shape of the inserts.

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  33. I vote for using the lace because it looks like the inserts are too small to use that herringbone to its best advantage. But both would surely be beautiful, and you always have such good judgement regarding proportions. Good luck--I can't wait to see how you progress!

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  34. I am finally finding time to catch up on blog reading. Thanks for your support during the contest. This dress will be so worth the time you had to spend on transferring the style lines to your TNT. As to which fabrics to use, I vote for the lace as the inserts. The Japanese designer Shingo Sato did a similar dress in black with lace inserts and it was gorgeous. This is the link to the Youtube video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th90rJ8SCIw His method of drawing the style lines on a muslin of the dress is another method that can be used to replicate style lines to a TNT.

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